Apulian frisella appetizers
"Aschuande" ricotta: the strong flavors of Puglia
they call strong ricotta or spicy ricotta, even if the idea that its flavor releases is better conveyed by the various Apulian dialect cadences: ricotta 'scante, scanta, arcuante, ashande, aschuande whatever. However, the name seems to derive from Latin and is linked to the word brucio, due to its generally spicy taste.
It is a creamy and spreadable dairy product present on the table of Apulians since time immemorial, a very particular culinary gem that is consumed in small doses, given the intensity of its flavour.
It is produced with cow's milk, continuously processed and re-kneaded, it matures in terracotta jars for a few weeks, and thanks to this process it takes on its characteristic spicy flavor due to proteolysis and extreme lipolysis.
How to do it
The cow's milk whey is heated to 70 degrees and then 10% milk is added. Everything is brought to a temperature of 95 degrees and at this point, the traditional fresh Apulian ricotta emerges to the surface which must be transferred into common perforated containers for a few hours, to be able to purge.
The fresh ricotta is then transferred into a terracotta container and left to rest for three days, after which the liquid it releases is eliminated and the mixture is re-mixed.
The three-day process must be repeated until the mixture reaches the right density and is creamy. The maturation of the ricotta still requires 30 days of rest in a humid environment, after which, it is salted and matured for another three or four months in the same conditions, depending on the spiciness you want to achieve.
In Puglia, this delicacy is spread on toasted bread enriched with anchovies in oil or cherry tomatoes, it is used as a filling for panzerotti, spread on pancakes or, mixed in small doses with tomato sauce then used to season the classic orecchiette.
Enjoy your meal!